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parsonsj
01-29-2005, 12:00 PM
Has anybody looked into Speedglass for use in flush mounting windshields (and back windows too)?

They sell it formed using factory windshields as molds and 1" oversize. It's the oversize that is the problem solver. I wouldn't have to fill the gap left by omitting the factory gasket. Their website (http://www.percyshp.com) indicates that urethane adhesives can be used to mount the window.

They come in 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" thicknesses, are shatterproof, scratch proof, can be tinted, and are lighter than standard glass.

I can't think of a downside ...

Anybody ever explore this before?

jp

LIL QIK
01-29-2005, 12:49 PM
Well I went to your link...........but either I'm an idiot and can't navigate their site or their site's not very friendly...........I can't find any info on front or back glass............

It would definitely be something that I would want to look into though.

parsonsj
01-29-2005, 01:18 PM
Oops. Link fixed.

jp

MoeBawlz
01-29-2005, 05:06 PM
hmmm interesting... anyone know what stock glass will sell for anyway?

quadfather
01-29-2005, 05:27 PM
i have used this stuff many times in race cars . it's basicly lexan that has a scratch resistant coating . it's not scratch proof . it will still get scratches. but is much better than uncoated. also it will collapse at high speeds if not supported in the middle. i would stick to glass in a street car.

parsonsj
01-29-2005, 05:55 PM
Appreciate the advice, but I prefer the technical information. The website says the 1/8" needs center support, but that the 3/16" and 1/4" thickness versions don't.

jp

LIL QIK
01-30-2005, 08:45 AM
Wohhhhhhh Wilbur..................that stuff's expensive..........I could buy 5 windshields for the price of one of those...........Plus I would constantly be worried the wipers would eventually wear through the coating..........I know it says wiper friendly.......but still don't think I would trust it.

I was thinking it was an alternative to having the chrome trim on the windshield and back glass............

That's what I would like.............an alternative and making it look like a late model fluch mount.

FSTFBDY
01-31-2005, 06:49 AM
I like this one alot better.

http://www.racingshields.com/

I have a sample here and you can scrub it with steel wool and it wont scratch. and Ita fog resistant also.

If I didn't have a convertable id deff have it for a back window. Ive considered one for the front since the car will be a weekend ride only.

parsonsj
01-31-2005, 02:29 PM
I have a set of Speedglass front and back windows on order. 3/16 thick, 1" oversize in all dimensions. Apparently, I'm the last to know that this is the standard way of doing flush mount windows used by the big builders.

My Vintage glass (factory tint in front, smoked gray in back) are now for sale.

What a time saver!

jp

LIL QIK
01-31-2005, 02:59 PM
At the risk of sounding like an idiot..........what takes the place of the chrome? I mean.........do they offer some sort of rubber that goes between the body and glass...........or is it really just for race applications?

parsonsj
01-31-2005, 03:22 PM
what takes the place of the chrome?

Take a look at any late model car, and you'll see that the glass has a black stripe painted on the inside. That stripe is to allow urethane adhesive to hold the window in place. Late models usually don't have molding to hold the window, they just have molding to hide the edge of the glass (though some don't even have that).

The problem with simply using this technique with factory glass on our 35 yr old cars is that the glass is too small. There isn't any way to glue the glass to the window frame without modification. Many guys have altered their window frames to make the opening smaller so they can do the flush mount technique (e.g., Dennis Linson, Brian Schein). I was gonna do the same thing until I discovered this Lexan-based Speedglass. It can be cut to fit exactly inside the window frame of our old cars, giving us about 3/4" of glueable surface so that standard late model urethane window adhesive can glue the glass into place.

jp

LIL QIK
01-31-2005, 03:36 PM
Ok..........I understand that part...........I guess I was wondering if you had a source for something to hide the edge of the glass..........if you don't mind me asking..........what is it that you plan on doing for this or are you just leaving your's open?

parsonsj
01-31-2005, 03:54 PM
Not sure yet about hiding the edge of the glass. I may just leave it: sand it, polish it, and leave it exposed. Remember that the edge of the glass will be recessed into the frame, so it won't really be visible (hence the term flush-mount: a smooth surface between glass and sheetmetal). I would try for an 1/16" gap between the sheetmetal and the glass. A more germane question is how to get the glass to exactly follow the contour of the roof and cowl lines. That may require late model window edge trim to hide some minor flaws.

jp

FSTFBDY
01-31-2005, 05:15 PM
Prob no help here but on a 3rdgen Ive seen it sealed in like normal. This way it looked like a factory install.

If I can dig up the pic's I'll link em for ya.

The car was on cardomain. Blue with white stripes. The guy did the front and rear.

FSTFBDY
01-31-2005, 06:27 PM
This might give you some ideas

http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/403007/9

parsonsj
01-31-2005, 08:58 PM
Good stuff on the blue 3rd gen.

thanks!

jp

David Sloan
02-01-2005, 03:15 AM
Thanks for the info JP !
I was hoping to do a flush mount on my next car. this will make it so much easyer.

parsonsj
02-01-2005, 05:22 AM
this will make it so much easier

You bet it will. No body modifications are required. The plastic is quite flexible and can easily be formed to fit the slightly different width flush mount requires.

Now, the glass fitting is done after the car is painted, and the body/paint and interior guys don't have to deal with altered window frames.

jp

TitoJones
02-01-2005, 06:31 AM
Will you ever stop posting this stuff!?!?!

I was fine with my old style non flush mount windows. Then you have to show me that I won't spend 75 hours trying to mod my window frames, and can go this route.
Damn you!! One more thing to add to the very long list...

Tyler

69 panel
02-01-2005, 07:09 AM
I tried to find the prices or a distributor on the site and couldn't find either. Anyone have the prices or know a company that sells the product? Do they sell direct?

MoeBawlz
02-01-2005, 08:09 AM
there was a shop that had a vender booth at the World Drag Expo in St. Charles Il. last weekend that had a big sign that said "SPEED GLASS" so its more than likely the same thing, but id have to find out... I cant think of who it was off the top of my head but i can find out.

parsonsj
02-01-2005, 09:49 AM
69 panel: look at the first post in the thread. There's a link there to this (http://www.percyshp.com).

Tyler: Don't forget to have Kris update your rendering and remove that chrome trim. :slap:

jp

F70t/a
02-01-2005, 02:32 PM
JP,

Are you also gonna do your side windows or leave those with the stock glass?

parsonsj
02-01-2005, 02:54 PM
Are you also gonna do your side windows or leave those with the stock glass?

I asked them about side windows and they said it would be fine if the windows didn't need to roll up and down. It was an issue of attaching the window hw to the plastic as best I can tell.

I'll have a look at it when my front and rear windows show up. But, more than likely, I'll use stock glass on the sides.

jp

DLinson
02-01-2005, 08:24 PM
While this glass would have kept me from pulling in the opening by 1/4 inch, this wouldn't have helped much on the ledge it sits on. I had to move the ledge up about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in order to get the glass flush with the body (including about 1/8 inch or so for the glue). The ledge was also not real wide, I don't know if the glass would have set on there very well. I had seen the speed glass display at a trade show before, I believe it was the Hotrod and Restoration show in Indy a few years ago. I thought it would be a good idea.

Luckily Chevy II Only just informed me that they are now making rear glass for 62-65 sedans so I don't have to settle for trying to have the scratches polished out of mine.

I'm planning on using S-10 rubber window trim. It glues to the edge of the glass and covers the small gap between the body and glass. It's about 1/2 inch thick. Vintage Glass sells it but you should be able to buy it by the foot from a local window installer.

parsonsj
02-04-2005, 03:48 PM
Well, my new plastic windows arrived today. They are very light, and sized right. Minor trimming is all that is necessary to get a nice gap and glue it in.

Dennis, I have some edge trim that Brian Schein found, along with some that Vintage Glass sent along with my windows. It has a u-channel for the glass and a lip to cover the gap. It should make for a nice fit.

Raising the frame up isn't really necessary, according to a window installer Brian talked to. You can buy urethane adhesive strips in various "heights" to fill the gap.

Anyway, I won't be installing the glass until after paint and interior, so I won't have any more to report for a few months ...

jp

F70t/a
02-04-2005, 04:18 PM
Jp does it look like real glass? or like a lexan window? Did the windows meet your standards?

parsonsj
02-05-2005, 12:45 PM
Dave,
It has a protective film on it, so I can't really say. The service over at Percy's is sure up to snuff.

The weight, fit, and look sure seem good.

jp

Jim Nilsen
02-07-2005, 11:07 PM
Hi John, I was thinking about the directions I have read over the years when installing window glass in homes and was always told to allow for the lexan or plastic windows to grow in size.

It might be a good idea to measure it cold and hot to see how much you get. I sure would hate to see it buckle if it gets too big.

If I didn't like the chrome trim so much I would do this to my car!

Jim Nilsen

Buford's Customs
02-08-2005, 09:50 AM
You may have seen the mouldings that replace the chrome before but on my car I went to the local glass shop and bought a bulk moulding. It is about 1/4'' wide and urethanes in with the glass. Hides edge of glass and gives that finished look to your install. People also look at the car and can not quite figure out what's up.

LIL QIK
02-08-2005, 10:12 AM
So where can I find the moldings that just replace the chrome...........and do you have any pics of what your car looks like with the bulk stuff......up close ones would be nice too.

Buford's Customs
02-08-2005, 01:34 PM
The moulding will not just replace the chrome it is only a filler. The speed glass will expand and contract so you don't want the glass to close to the body. This moulding will act as a filler it is kind of T shaped. look at 83 or 84 Camaro windshiels this is the narrow moulding that I would use, later cars had much wider. On my car I used the orig. glass and built up the pinchweld and also built in from the edges of the body. I moved the windshield up, added 1 1/2'' to the cowl and tapered that into the tops of the fender I will try to get some pics, but progrss reports are due tomarrow.

B Schein
02-08-2005, 02:47 PM
John, The Urethane doesn’t come in strips. It just comes in a chalking tube and you can make it whatever thickness you want.

Brian

USAZR1
06-16-2005, 06:19 PM
Can a well-equipped automotive glass shop handle a flushmount job or is it something for a custom body shop?

parsonsj
06-17-2005, 06:28 AM
Clint,
If you are set on using glass for the windshield, then you will need to employ a body shop to reduce the size of the opening to fit the factory windshield. They will need to reduce the opening by 3/4" or so for each direction, plus subtly shape the opening so the wrap of the glass matches the cowl and roof.

jp

Travis B
06-17-2005, 09:01 AM
Clint,
If you are set on using glass for the windshield, then you will need to employ a body shop to reduce the size of the opening to fit the factory windshield. They will need to reduce the opening by 3/4" or so for each direction, plus subtly shape the opening so the wrap of the glass matches the cowl and roof.

jp


Is yours installed yet????? I would like to see some pics

USAZR1
06-17-2005, 10:21 AM
Clint,
If you are set on using glass for the windshield, then you will need to employ a body shop to reduce the size of the opening to fit the factory windshield. They will need to reduce the opening by 3/4" or so for each direction, plus subtly shape the opening so the wrap of the glass matches the cowl and roof.
jp

John,my car is a daily driver so I would be very hesitant in using anything but a glass windshield. Reducing the size of the window openings in metal sounds time-consuming and expensive. But,what else is new? :hammer:

I met a guy at Chevellabration in Nashville last week that's building a custom 69 Elky. We're going to work together on developing a one-piece side window kit for 68-72 El Caminos. It would be easy but the windows have some curvature.

parsonsj
06-17-2005, 10:29 AM
Travis,
No ... not yet. I'm still getting color on the sheetmetal.

jp

Flyboy
06-17-2005, 10:43 AM
Hey John, a quick off-topic here...

Just wanted to say congrats on a sweet write-up in PHR! Looking good! :smoke:

parsonsj
06-17-2005, 12:41 PM
Doug,
Thanks very much! Next up is a rear suspension article. I think it's running in October.

jp

g71rs
06-19-2005, 04:30 PM
A friend of mine is doing this to his car...he is welding pieces to the side and bottom of window frames to shrink fit the factory opening and to raise windsheild up....I was just wondering by this thread are you saying that if you use the factory glass and use s10 window trim to fill in and raise the factory window...i have a 71 camaro....anyone got any pictures of s10 molding used?

parsonsj
06-20-2005, 08:33 AM
I'm slightly confused by your post, so I'll answer a question you may have asked:

The trim is only to hide the edges of the window. You still have to make the window frame smaller.

jp

g71rs
06-20-2005, 09:09 AM
hey jp,
yeah i thought by the posts you could use the s10 rubber molding to raise and fill in the gaps from a stock windshield / rear window..i want to get rid of the chrome strip that covers body and glass.....so i guess i have to weld pcs on the sides and bottom of frame to do this correct? on 71 camaro

Travis B
06-20-2005, 09:15 AM
Correct! it may also require changing the contour of the opening slighty as well
Good Luck

parsonsj
06-20-2005, 01:13 PM
Don't overlook the SpeedGlass method. In the past, using Lexan wasn't such a good idea on the street due to scratching and yellowing concerns. Percy"s says this new SpeedGlass has really addressed those issues.

I'll post up once I have it mounted in the car (say 2-3 months from now).

jp

alcino
09-16-2005, 01:31 PM
I need a new windsheild and was wondering what the quality of the speedglass is. Any progress on installing it John? Do you have to cut the windsheild to fit? How do you do it? Also what thickness did you get. I like the 3/16 so I don't have to use a support

Alcino

parsonsj
09-16-2005, 01:51 PM
Alcino,

No, not yet. Uh ... maybe another 2-3 months, LOL. I got 3/16" myself. It is very light and sits patiently in my shop waiting to be installed.

It is an inch oversize and needs to be trimmed slightly to fit. I'm told to fit it to 1/8" gap for heat expansion.

jp

MoeBawlz
09-19-2005, 07:23 AM
outta curiosity what are you trimming it with? any high speed cutting tool ive used seems to tend to melt the edges and make it hard to keep clean. or are you just melting it off and dealing with that?

Travis B
09-19-2005, 07:27 AM
Alcino,

No, not yet. Uh ... maybe another 2-3 months, LOL. I got 3/16" myself. It is very light and sits patiently in my shop waiting to be installed.

It is an inch oversize and needs to be trimmed slightly to fit. I'm told to fit it to 1/8" gap for heat expansion.

jp


John, you really need to speed up here I need some info on this glass! :fingersx:

parsonsj
09-19-2005, 08:33 AM
MB,

I was gonna use a bandsaw (at metal speeds), then file to fit. It will be slow, but shouldn't melt the material. I also have to mask and sand the coating off the inside of the windshield so that urethane primer will stick so the adhesive will work.

jp

parsonsj
09-19-2005, 08:34 AM
Travis,

Patience, my man! It will really be 2-3 months this time. I promise, LOL.

jp

Travis B
09-19-2005, 09:24 AM
Travis,

Patience, my man! It will really be 2-3 months this time. I promise, LOL.

jp


well if I have to wait then long I guess I can! LOL! Still working on the chassis long so I am still a ways away from body mods!

any idea where you will be debuting the car jp?

Damn True
02-16-2006, 10:35 PM
Travis,

Patience, my man! It will really be 2-3 months this time. I promise, LOL.

jp

Well?
Well?

It's February already!

Damn True
02-20-2006, 05:50 AM
ttt

Travis B
02-20-2006, 06:08 AM
ttt


I know JP is on vacation...it may be a few more days????

Damn True
03-02-2006, 03:03 PM
hoping for an update on this soon

parsonsj
03-02-2006, 05:57 PM
You guys kill me. There is nothing worse than seeing one's plans go up in smoke.

Sorry about the delay. I have my engine back and am working at lightspeed to get it running this spring. So ... it'll be a couple of months.

Really. :)

jp

GRider68
03-08-2006, 02:26 PM
Does anyone now who's car this is? It looks like they did a pretty good job on they're flush mount. I would like to know where I can get that type of glass. If they are glass

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Camaro-Custom-Corvette-Tune-Port-Resto-Mod-Show-Car-110-Pics_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6161QQitemZ4618893 913QQrdZ1

JoshStratton
03-08-2006, 02:30 PM
Does anyone now who's car this is? It looks like they did a pretty good job on they're flush mount. I would like to know where I can get that type of glass. If they are glass

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Camaro-Custom-Corvette-Tune-Port-Resto-Mod-Show-Car-110-Pics_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6161QQitemZ4618893 913QQrdZ1

Wow. Nice car but that grill has to go.

fladoans
03-10-2006, 07:23 AM
Does anyone now who's car this is? It looks like they did a pretty good job on they're flush mount. I would like to know where I can get that type of glass. If they are glass

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Camaro-Custom-Corvette-Tune-Port-Resto-Mod-Show-Car-110-Pics_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6161QQitemZ4618893 913QQrdZ1

I don't think the glass is flush mounted. I think they painted the chrome trim black and then painted a black border onmthe inside of the windows. But, those rear drum brakes with the fake rotors have got to go.

Rolling_Thunder
03-10-2006, 08:16 AM
hmmm interesting... anyone know what stock glass will sell for anyway?

depends on what you have... chevelle, camaro, nova, mustang glass is cheap.... if you have a rear window for a Charger, Coronet, dart... then you will make money

73z-6sp
03-10-2006, 04:23 PM
Does anyone now who's car this is? It looks like they did a pretty good job on they're flush mount. I would like to know where I can get that type of glass. If they are glass

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Camaro-Custom-Corvette-Tune-Port-Resto-Mod-Show-Car-110-Pics_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6161QQitemZ4618893 913QQrdZ1


Are those the ever elusive "drusc" brakes on the rear?



(drum disc )

6'9"Witha69
03-10-2006, 04:42 PM
Is it just me or does the job on the lower spring pads look terrible? Crappy looking weld, and the shocks seem to be at such a weird angle. If it were me I would not have put any of those underbody shots up.

boodlefoof
03-13-2006, 06:34 AM
Yeah, that welding looks pretty bad... and what is up with those drilled drums? ;)

xtrmeta
03-21-2006, 01:13 PM
I'm doing the flush mount glass in my 70 Camaro. A friend of mine owns a glass shop. He came over and did a test fit. He just raised the glass with butal tape. The trim comes in all different widths.
He set my windsheild in and used a 5/8 trim and it looked very good.

Damn True
03-21-2006, 01:15 PM
I'm doing the flush mount glass in my 70 Camaro. A friend of mine owns a glass shop. He came over and did a test fit. He just raised the glass with butal tape. The trim comes in all different widths.
He set my windsheild in and used a 5/8 trim and it looked very good.

Do you have any photos of that?

xtrmeta
03-21-2006, 02:08 PM
I didn't take any pics of the test fit. Took it back out to finish all the body work. I'll get some pics when the windows go back in.

TSSPAYNE69RS
05-03-2006, 12:20 PM
I have been watching this thread for 7 months and I am eagerly waiting for more opinion and pics of flush mounts. I am about 2 months away from being ready for glass on my 69 and I really would like the flush mount in the front, not so sure about the back. Any opinions? What is best Speedtech or the Shields from racingshields.com????

grand_marquis_gt
05-05-2006, 07:09 AM
This thread is WORTHLESS without pics!

Damn True
05-05-2006, 07:13 AM
I didn't take any pics of the test fit. Took it back out to finish all the body work. I'll get some pics when the windows go back in.

So you used the Butuyl to set the height and an adhesive to hold the glass in place?

parsonsj
09-24-2006, 05:31 PM
OK, time to update what we found with the flush mount idea using Percy's HP Speedglass.

The windshield works fine, once we dropped the idea of using urethane adhesive. You must use butyl. The window needs to be trimmed carefully, and you might need to use some screws to hold the window in place while the butyl is setting up.

The back window did not work. The 'set' of the lexan was too bowed, and it sat too high in the middle and "dug in" on the sides. The way to make it work would be to use spacers to keep the window from digging in on the sides and screws to hold it down until the glue sets. If the window more exactly matched the contour of the car, it would work easily. As it is, we stopped, and re-grouped. After much discussion, Frank and I agreed that I should go back to traditional glass, gaskets, and trim.

Percy's expects the use of screws to keep the glass in, and doesn't make the contour of the window conform exactly enough to the body for it to work easily. That's true with my Nova body ... it may be that other body styles have better conformance and will have an easier timer of it.

The look of the flush mount was a consideration too. I must say it didn't quite look right to me, though that may be the frustration of a wasted day wrestling with it.

Oh well. Sorry for the long time needed to get an partial answer to this question.

jp

paul67
09-25-2006, 07:57 AM
I watched a canadian program called how its made , they showed how they curved the windscreen glass, they made a pattern the same curve as was needed, then sat the flat glass on top and heated it evenly with with blow torches as the glass heated it then sank to the disired profile, if this could be done with an over size glass then trimed to suit. Just a thought. If used a second hand screen from a scrap car should not cost much to do , as the pattern seemed to be made of wood.

GRider68
01-04-2007, 06:00 AM
How about this one. I am trying to contact the builder now

parsonsj
01-04-2007, 07:50 AM
How about this one.That is done via traditional "make the window opening smaller" methods like how Brian Schein did his '67. How do I know that? SpeedGlass can't be tinted, and I know of no supplier of oversize glass windows.

jp

GRider68
01-04-2007, 10:13 AM
The builder said he welded in a 1/4" piece of round bar and then leaded the rest in. Once he was done with that he sanded the shape smooth. Check this link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300064891240&rd=1,1

High Plains Mopars
01-13-2007, 01:31 PM
So, are you limited to lexan or speedglas if you want oversized front and back lites?

parsonsj
01-13-2007, 01:59 PM
are you limited to lexan or speedglas if you want oversized front and backRight, as far as I know. To use glass, you'll need to reduce the window frame about 3/8 to 1/2"

jp

FJB2069
02-18-2007, 09:17 AM
I have been considering this with speedglass. I talked to them at PRI and looked at the 69 front shield. IN 0.25" thick it seemed very forgiving as far as being able to contour to the frame.

IF you go to www.equalizer.com (http://www.equalizer.com) and use Tight-Radius Underside Moulding • 100' Spool (http://equalizer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=estore&Product_Code=T202&Category_Code=11)
Code: T202
Price: $89.95
Quantity in Basket: none

I would think you would be able to build up the ledge with butyl or silicone adhesive and then lay in the molding.

THis would give true flush mount look with no visible molding.

I am not sure what thickness matterial Parsons had tried to use for the rear window, but I would think the rear would only be 3/16" and that it would be even more flexible, but I guess I am wrong?

I do not know what to do at this point. But I do feel that painting the original trim to match looks much better then trying to use the 1" wide rubber molding.

parsonsj
02-18-2007, 11:00 AM
I used the 3/16 SpeedGlass on both front and back. I still think it can work. To do so, one needs to be familiar with the adhesive alternatives, working times, curing shrinkage, etc.

I would make some hard rubber spacers that will lie underneath the window and position it properly. You will also need some way of holding the window in place until the adhesive sets well enough to hold the window on its own.

I used a bandsaw and wood planer to size the windows. That worked fine, but be sure to fit, re-fit, and fit again before cutting the tips off the adhesive tubes attempting to glue the window in. A motivated helper can be a good thing, since the window is awkward to position and hold into place.

Good luck, and let us know it turns out.

jp

FJB2069
02-18-2007, 02:18 PM
John,

Do you think that you could just use a fews beads of adhesive and let them set up and shape them to build the ledge?

I actaully used some rubber blocks to hold up pvc templates that I made of the window area. They fit very close (about 1/16" from edge). I was thinking of sending my templates to Shields to have them cut them to size? Then I was thinking of using a sanding block or square DA sander to knock down the edges to size for final fit.

Did you use any type of moulding or just adhesive?

Fred

TSSPAYNE69RS
03-01-2007, 12:39 PM
:smoke:

I am waiting for the sure fix on this. I want to do it after all of you figure out the problems.

parsonsj
03-01-2007, 01:04 PM
I am waiting for the sure fix on this. I want to do it after all of you figure out the problems.Ah, yes. That's the pioneer spirit. :)

jp

parsonsj
03-01-2007, 01:06 PM
Do you think that you could just use a fews beads of adhesive and let them set up and shape them to build the ledge?Maybe. Probably. I think somebody with some experience with urethane adhesives might be more qualified to answer.

I was not going to use any "covering" molding other than a simple lip to cover the gap itself.

jp

BMF Machine
03-02-2007, 01:06 AM
Jp, Please just git'r'done. Steve'o and crew need to take some pictures!



Kevin:smoke:

Ripper
12-12-2007, 02:46 AM
Bumping this thread now when JP's car is done... Is the glass still working fine? Any scratches from wipers (or you don't drive your car in the rain perhaps?)

parsonsj
12-12-2007, 03:59 AM
In the end, we used standard glass and attachment methods (see post 71 in this thread).

jp

nvr2fst
12-13-2007, 06:23 PM
I know this might be a little late in bringing ideas but cheak out this link. I have asked a couple of guys rod shows Ive attended who have done this. The original glass is being used. You just need to track down some type of gasket or bulk roll of trimming. If you happened to see this year, Perfection Autosports challenger and charger, I believe thats how they did theres with original glass. a http://www.extremefirebird.com/Bodymods.html

Ripper
12-13-2007, 11:37 PM
In the end, we used standard glass and attachment methods (see post 71 in this thread).

jp
Ooops, seems like I missed page 4... So, as I understand it, you skipped the flush mounting and used the conventional method?


I know this might be a little late in bringing ideas but cheak out this link. I have asked a couple of guys rod shows Ive attended who have done this. The original glass is being used. You just need to track down some type of gasket or bulk roll of trimming. If you happened to see this year, Perfection Autosports challenger and charger, I believe thats how they did theres with original glass. a http://www.extremefirebird.com/Bodymods.html
Great idea, and great model too! :naughty:

I'm thinking about doing this! I'll use a plastic rear window and a standard windshield so I'm mostly worried for the front windshield...

DLinson
12-14-2007, 07:59 PM
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2300&highlight=flush+mount

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1777&highlight=flush+mount

http://www.et-motorsports.cc/project_cars/nova_62_menace/Construction/Body_work/index.htm

Check out the above links. The top two are other threads here on this site and the last is a link to my web site for my 62 Nova. I flush mounted the front and rear glass, removed the drip rails, and removed the vent window. I used stock glass for all of the windows exept the doors which I had custom cut to some templates I made. If you use the stock glass you may need to build up the window ledge, extend the ledge in, and extend the body opening closer to the glass. I only left about 1/8 to 3/16 inch for the urethane glue. That was too little. It should have more so the urethane can flex more with the car. I used a S10 style window molding that I got from a mail order company. I can find out the company name if you need it.

Check out the links. If you have any questions you can PM me or post them here.

Dennis

vancouver67
03-14-2008, 11:40 AM
Dennis:

If you can post where you ordered the S10 style window molding that would be great. I have been looking for this stuff!!!

Vancouver67