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cfrc51
11-14-2007, 05:09 PM
Hey Guys,
I have shaved my firewall and looking to add a small heater/defroster only no a/c. Does anyone make a all electric? Ive seen the toy jc whitney ones. What do you custom guys use?
Thanks.

ZZ430
11-14-2007, 05:51 PM
Vintage Air makes this "Compact heater with defrost"

I used one on a 69 Camaro with smoothed firewall.

It works pretty well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

cfrc51
11-14-2007, 06:03 PM
Thanks for the picts Too!

Moabdude
11-15-2007, 01:31 PM
I also shaved my firewall. don't want those heater hoses under my hood.

Any 12Volt options?

West Texas Z
11-15-2007, 01:36 PM
Do you have any wider shots of that set up? I mean like from far away. I'm not picturing that in my head where everything is at.

Thanks. =)

ZZ430
11-15-2007, 02:10 PM
It bolts to the inside of the firewall, just above the passenger's feet. (it's out of the way). It is secured by studs that could be concealed. The fasteners show on this one, but I'm re-doing the firewall over the winter.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The -10 hoses were routed behind the fenderwell.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

West Texas Z
11-15-2007, 02:36 PM
Sorry for all the questions but why do the hoses go to intake manifold? One does right? Where is the other heading?

ZZ430
11-15-2007, 03:12 PM
This is a better angle, one is fuel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The hoses are in place of the usual bypass port for a big block, inlet to heater core, and a return to the water pump. I didn't use the usual heater port on the intake for a cleaner routing.

The hoses go under the alternator, and then behind the fenderwell.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I don't mind the questions.

paul67
11-15-2007, 05:36 PM
I saw an electric 1 fitted in the trunk and trunking fed to the front.

West Texas Z
11-15-2007, 09:57 PM
:kewlpics: Thats insane! I didnt know that much work and lines went into the whole process. WOW. Looks like I have to do some homework before I order my kit. :look:

Thanks Don.

MonzaRacer
11-17-2007, 12:27 PM
The problem with electric heat is it requires an enormous amount of amperage to make such a remote unit work efficiently or any electric heater for that matter.
I have been looking at plate heating elements used in commercial applications.
I havent recieved any of the literature yet but the ones I looked at run onaround 13.5 v DC and figured that a box modified to run several of these might serve our hot rodding purpose but havent got cataloges nor pricing yet,,, cold weather and a friends bad heater got me looking for alternative as his carpet got trashed as well as several hundred dollars of insulation and sound dampener.
But if you simply want a heat/def a small core with a fan hidden under the dash with a couple of discretely installed lines would make a very unique system.
The VA stuff also works but ids out of my price range usually.
good luck and Ill keep the forums posted as my search progresses.
Good Luck
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

TonyL
11-17-2007, 12:42 PM
Any corvair that runs headers has no heat. Same for a vw. So we have been dealing with this problem for quite some time. The best solution at the time seems to be:
something like this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300-WATT-12-VOLT-DIRECT-HOOK-HEATER-COOLING-CAR-FAN-NEW_W0QQitemZ320162108005QQihZ011QQcategoryZ46094Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) coupled with heated seats or seat covers.

remember that watts divided by the voltage of your system = the amperage draw. So a 300 watt heater is roughly a 25 amps. The unit pictured is small enough to hide under a dash, and can be modded with ductwork to actually defrost your windows, but provides little heat unless you're going to be in the car for over 30 minutes.

Im still tempted to wrap one of my headers with copper tubing and pump water through it, back to vintage air's setup. I bet I could figure something out.

Damn True
11-17-2007, 01:04 PM
Vintage Air makes this "Compact heater with defrost"

I used one on a 69 Camaro with smoothed firewall.

It works pretty well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif







BINGO!

Man I have been looking high & low for exactly that. I'd heard that VA made one, but I've yet to find a distributor that knew of it.

You wouldn't happen to have a PN for it would you?

TonyL
11-17-2007, 01:41 PM
here you go True (http://www.macsradiator.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=34)

And it's MUCH cheaper than I thought it would be. Now I really have to consider my copper tubing idea.

Damn True
11-17-2007, 02:01 PM
Holy smokes!

I'm STOKED!

West Texas Z
11-17-2007, 04:21 PM
wow thats cheap. Is there a link to the instructions?

TonyL
11-17-2007, 04:23 PM
There sure is, It's a PDF file. (http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Heater%20Systems/50615-VUH%20CompacHeater(wDefrost)%20(Inet).pdf)

West Texas Z
11-17-2007, 10:40 PM
Thanks Tony!!

Bow Tie 67
11-28-2007, 02:36 PM
I welded in a quick bracket to mount the VA heater and routed the hoses through the cowl vent area for a smooth firewall.

Here is the bracket I welded in under the pass foot area to mount the unit without having bolts through the firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The hose exit and cover plate I made.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And the clean firewall with all the lines hidden behind the fender

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Damn True
11-28-2007, 02:40 PM
Very cool!

ZZ430
11-28-2007, 03:18 PM
Yep!

Nice work, makes mine look like a hack job!

It will give me something to do this winter. :candle:

Roger M
11-28-2007, 03:55 PM
Any corvair that runs headers has no heat. Same for a vw. So we have been dealing with this problem for quite some time. The best solution at the time seems to be:
something like this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300-WATT-12-VOLT-DIRECT-HOOK-HEATER-COOLING-CAR-FAN-NEW_W0QQitemZ320162108005QQihZ011QQcategoryZ46094Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) coupled with heated seats or seat covers.

remember that watts divided by the voltage of your system = the amperage draw. So a 300 watt heater is roughly a 25 amps. The unit pictured is small enough to hide under a dash, and can be modded with ductwork to actually defrost your windows, but provides little heat unless you're going to be in the car for over 30 minutes.

Im still tempted to wrap one of my headers with copper tubing and pump water through it, back to vintage air's setup. I bet I could figure something out.




Your idea about wrapping your header with copper pipe is great! I have a friend who owns a cabin in the Cascade mtns up here who has a wired fired hot tub outside. The tub is heated by a submurged aluminum box that vents out the top thru some 6" ductwork. Anyhow, in the wintertime it takes over three hours to heat the water from 38 degrees up to 102+. He wrapped the duct with about 75 feet of soft copper pipe(3/8" i think). with a small electric pump circulating the tub water thru the copper while the fire is burning, The heat-up time dropped by about an hour.
I know this isnt even related to this topic, but this post reminded me of that. I am am certain that you can make it work. Just make sure you have a way to purge all of the air out of the lines, otherwise it may not heat up. Good luck!

CRead01
11-28-2007, 07:03 PM
I have been looking for something like this for so long. I shaved my firewall and didn't want the cost of a full air conditioning system but still want defrost. this is perfect.

Bow Tie 67
12-01-2007, 09:52 AM
Yep!

Nice work, makes mine look like a hack job!

It will give me something to do this winter. :candle:

Not at all, I do notice the differences with the cable operated vs. the vaccum operated change the decision of how it can be mounted. With the manual units tube routing I was able to position the flapper door to open toward the driver. With the 90* tubing adapters it was a pain in the butt getting it mounted in a position to allow it. I suppose I could have moved it over to the left more and kept everything in the cabin, but I did have worries about to much heat near the PCM which I mounted on top of the trans tunnel under the dash.

Matt

Damn True
10-27-2008, 09:43 AM
Matt,

Any further info about this now that you've lived with it for a while?

Bow Tie 67
10-31-2008, 03:57 PM
True,

I have only needed it twice. It blows light heat when stopped and cold air when moving. I have been to busy this summer to look into it. I think if I restrict the fluid to the heater core that may help. Otherwise I'm at a loss.

Damn True
11-01-2008, 12:15 PM
inetersting

tis the season for figuring out your heater function

Zanie
01-05-2009, 08:09 PM
Tony, your link to the electric heater no longer works, but that's understandable, it's a year old.

I've been driving my 56 chevy (most summers, when it's together) since 1985 and never had a heater. There have been some chilly spring and fall nights, but no big deal.

Many times I've been caught in the rain and really needed a defroster. A little heat flowing out of the defroster vents would be great. My firewall is smooth and I don't want to add the heater hoses.
I was thinking a small 20 amp electric heat source would be better than nothing.
I could probably mount something like this http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12vo300wadut.html
on the inlet of my defroster vents. But I'd have to tear it open because I'd want to control the funtions with my dash controls.
I'v done abunch of searching (for a small amp draw heater) it's either that or something like this http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12allsehewic.html.
I've searched around the web and these two types are about all I can find. whatever I do will be mounted in the inlet of the defroster vent and hard wired in.
Any other suggestions?

I've been lurking around this site a LONG time.
Thanks for a great site!
Dan

Damn True
05-09-2009, 10:27 AM
I welded in a quick bracket to mount the VA heater and routed the hoses through the cowl vent area for a smooth firewall.

Here is the bracket I welded in under the pass foot area to mount the unit without having bolts through the firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The hose exit and cover plate I made.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And the clean firewall with all the lines hidden behind the fender

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Matt, your photos are dead. Any chance I could get you to email those photos to me?

Bow Tie 67
05-12-2009, 09:33 AM
here is a link to one, I should have more at home.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2242841640065608932BKChyx

Damn True
05-12-2009, 09:36 AM
Can't save the photo, can you email it to me?

honukait at hotmail dot com