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LT1Nova
11-18-2004, 08:45 AM
I was thinking about purchasing a Transgo Shift kit for my 4L60E and I was wondering if anyone has used one and how they liked it.

myclone
11-18-2004, 10:29 AM
Jon,

To answer your question their shift kits are of "ok" quality. Bascially they are better than B&M, the "fake" Art Carr, and some others that are sold over the net (import/poor quality) but youll hear some trans ppl talk about how much they hate them.

That being said would you like to have firmer shifts for 50 bucks or so? If youre interested and dont mind spending a few hours swapping some parts then read on.

First thing is to make sure that the trans is in good health because if it has a bazillion miles on it then anything you do is just a temporary fix at best. Anyways, pull the 2-4 servo cover and either make sure you have the "093" vette/hi po 2nd apply servo or install one if you dont. You can pick these up on ebay/the net or your local trans rebuilder for a couple of bucks (dont pay more than $25 for it new).

While youve got the 2-4 servo line up out install an extra spring inside the existing spring under the 2nd apply spring retainer. This spring comes stock on syclone/typhoons and some vettes (not all those trans's got the spring for some reason). These springs act like a water hammer arrestor in your home plumbing so basically all they do in a auto trans is when the servo applies the spring compresses cushioning the shift engagement. By adding the extra spring you are increasing the amount of pressure it takes to compress those springs on the 2nd gear apply which equals firmer 1-2 shift.

Something else that you can do is pull the pressure regulator line up out of the front pump and install a .500 boost valve (~$25). This can be done by dropping the pan and removing one snap ring and gives you higher line pressure which equals firmer shifts.

If the trans is out of the car now or at some point be sure to remove the check ball thats in the end of the turbine shaft (input shaft) this will give you a more positive torque converter clutch engagement which makes the torque conv last longer under spirited driving. If you really want a firm TCC (torque conv clutch) apply then remove BOTH the check ball and its retainer from the turbine shaft. Be sure and install the .500 boost valve if you remove them both as the line pressure drops some when removing the ball/retainer and your line pressures will be too low with the stock boost valve. With both the retainer and check ball removed and a .500 boost valve the TCC apply will feel like another gear hitting....its that firm. BTW, GM leaves the check ball out in HD units fromt the factory to increase the durability of the TCC in heavy vehicles so its not a hack job/shade tree type mod. They leave the ball in on everything else due to customer complaints of "harsh shifts". Basically, the HD units are used as work/construction vehicles so the owners/drivers dont care or even notice the firmer shift.

If youre not familiar or comfortable tinkering with the trans then pick up an 87-up 700R4/4L60E ATSG manual (~$12 off the net/ebay) and you will find about everything Ive mentioned in that manual as well as what the parts look like and where they are located or you can take it to your local trans shop. Most any shop that has a little gray matter will know what Im talking about (if they dont then turn and walk....no, run the other direction).

There is a bunch of other stuff that can be done but it requires dropping the valve body so I will leave that stuff out since most ppl dont want to go through all of the hassle to do so nor do they want a trans that shifts like a full manual valve body pro mod trans (its brutal during light throttle driving).

Last thing is that be sure to run the biggest cooler you can fit/afford for the trans. Within reason you can NOT over cool an auto trans if its used for towing or hi po driving.

Prolly WAY more info than you wanted but Im waiting on the UPS guy to deliver some parts so I had some time to kill :)

Pzary3233
11-20-2004, 04:01 PM
Would this work for my Z71 Truck 4L60E too, right?

Texas Hotrod
11-20-2004, 04:32 PM
I have used the Trans-Go kits for many years, on different models, and find them to be a great value. Low price, good quality and lots of good info.
Myclone has many years of experience and I'm sure that he can agree that it takes many builds and some trial and error to figure out what works good and what works great.
You can follow a kit's directions and use the supplied parts to end up w/something sufficient. W/experience, you can build something outstanding by tweeking various little items, using thinner snap rings (to add more clutches), deleting springs, adding shims, etc,... and using the same kit.

A 4L60E needs an e.c.m. to run it, whether it's factory or aftermarket. You can alter the shift points and firmness by changing the program in the electronics. It'll probably cost more, but less of a mess.

I used a Power Programmer on a Z28 (OBD II) with great results. Plugged it in, scrolled the menu, used yes/no/up/down keys. I was impressed. Use minimal changes for the street, upgrade to maximum for the strip. Change fuel mixture/timing/rev limit/speed limiter/shift rpm/fan off-on/etc... I was sold on it. Everyone w/a late model vehicle needs one in their glove box.

---TEX---

LT1Nova
11-20-2004, 06:05 PM
I do have computer tuning software for my LT1 that covers the shifting but I would think that it would be beneficial to change parts in the trans also. Computer programming seems like a bandaid of sorts when used alone. Maybe I am thinking wrong.

Myclone - your info was exactly what I was looking for. I will probably purchase the book you recommended and dig in to it this winter.

I would like to eventually put a little stall in it but man they are spendy for the lockup ones.

I have done a b&m shift improver kit in the past. I do not fully understand auto transmissions so they intimidate me.

Basically I want something that shifts comfortable up to 1/2 throttle but stiffens up at over 1/2 throttle.

myclone
11-20-2004, 06:50 PM
LT1Nova,

Being as you have a 4L60E (puter controlled 700R4, basically) you can make improvements using software with no ill affects up to a certain power level generally speaking. I dont know what kind of power you are making now but IMO it would be safe to say you would be fine up to 425-ish hp before you need to start swapping hard parts.

Without getting into a huge technical speach the PCM pulses selonoids very rapidly to change the shift charactoristics instead of springs/valves/check balls used in the pre PCM controlled 700s. For the most part the selonoids are computer controlled fluid "leaks" and the PCM will change the pulse rate (opening/closing) of the selonoids to either bleed off pressure (increase the "leak") or bleed off less fluid pressure (decrease the "leak"). All that translates into either nice smooth shifts at moderate throttle input or when the PCM sees increased demand from the TPS, inj pulse width, etc it knows youve went WOT (or close to it) and firms up the shifts.

A PCM controlled trans is a huge improvement IMO over the stone age of springs, check balls, and spool valves that have been done for years since you can now have a trans that doesnt break your neck at shifts during light throttle but turns into a beast when you stab the throttle.

I would still pick up an ASTG manual if you like technical car info and if you feel the urge pick up a scrap 700/60E "core" at the local salvage yard to tear into. If its a core you wont hurt it since its already dead and once you get inside auto transes arent enormously complicated. Ive only been messing with the 700R4 for about 3 years due to scattering them all over the track regularly in my Syclone and before that Id never been inside one other than to change the fluid/filter. If I can rebuild one anyone can :) .

PS... I know lock up TCs are a little spendier(sp?) than a non lock up units but IMO the benefits far out weigh the cost. Less wear and tear on the engine at freeway speeds, lower trans fluid temps (trans lives longer), a few extra MPG, and if you have a loud exhaust your hearing will thank you on an extended drive due to the lower engine RPM. IMO below the 425ish HP level about any lock up converter should do just fine but if you flog the car at the drag strip fairly regularly with any more hp than that you should prolly step up and pay the bucks for a quality unit from a company like TCS or Yank since the B&M units regularly explode on anything that makes decent torque and good traction. The Syclone/Typhoon community could probably fill a large truck with broken B&M units so others as well as myself speak from experience on that issue.